We visited one Sunday afternoon in August and it was quite busy although not overcrowded. The pictures above show it as deserted, which doesn't do it justice. Also, I did notice pizza and wine being sold there, contrary to what was assumed in the OP. It wasn't our mealtime, so all we had was some coffee and ice cream, and it wasn't overpriced. I was quite impressed with both the architecture and the quality of the shops. Very stylish and upmarket, and I'm not usually a fan of tourist traps. Definitely worth at least one visit, but make it on a weekend, so you catch the atmosphere of a busy marketplace.